mantuas

Scope note: Type of ladies' garment that first developed in the 1670s in Europe; they were relatively loose, gown- or coat-like garments worn belted at the waist with a long train draped at the hips to reveal the front of the matching petticoat below. This style replaced the earlier stiff, constricting boned bodice-and-skirt style previously worn by women. As the style evolved, the pleats at the front were reduced in number and the bodice was opened, with the torso now covered by a stiffened piece of fabric known as a stomacher. Originally an informal style, the mantua gradually developed as formal dress and the skirt grew to extraordinary proportions. The mantua was thought to display silk designs to their best advantage, as they were draped rather than cut; as such, it is believed the garment was named after Mantua, Italy, where expensive silks were produced. However, it has also been suggested that the name derives from manteau, the French term for a coat.

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